The ultimate hair care guide: types, treatments & tips

Do you have dry and damaged hair, oily and shiny hair, or are your locks colored and hard to manage? If you're wondering what your hair type is, this guide from Esla Italy is just what you need! Knowing your hair type is the first step to treating it properly with products that truly meet your needs.

In this beauty guide, we'll explore how to determine your hair type and how to take care of it with an effective routine.

How to identify your hair type: the steps to follow

An effective haircare routine starts with understanding your hair type. Every head of hair has unique characteristics that determine the best products and treatments to use. Let’s explore the different hair types and the best methods for caring for them, from dry and damaged hair to oily or colored hair.

The main hair types:

• Normal hair: balanced between hydration and sebum (150-200 mg per day), with a pH between 4.5 and 5.5, tightly closed cuticles, and a natural shine. Straight or slightly wavy, they are easy to manage.

• Oily hair: produce more than 200 mg of sebum per day, resulting in a shiny and heavy appearance. The pH (4.0-5.0) helps close the cuticles but attracts impurities. They tend to get dirty quickly and appear flat.

• Dry hair: produce less than 150 mg of sebum per day, making them dull and fragile. With a higher pH (5.5-6.5), the cuticles are raised, leading to moisture loss. This hair type can be straight, wavy, or curly, but often feels rough and delicate.

• Colored or treated hair: coloring alters the pH (often above 7.0), making hair more porous and drier, without affecting sebum production. They require specific products to maintain both color and hydration.

How to recognize your hair type? The porosity and scalp test

To determine whether your hair is dry and damaged, normal, or oily, it's important to observe both its porosity and the amount of sebum produced by your scalp.

How to recognize your hair type? The hair porosity test

Porosity refers to how much moisture your hair absorbs and retains. To understand your hair's porosity level, perform the water test: place a strand of hair in a bowl of water and observe its behavior.

The hair sinks quickly: high porosity hair

• The hair cuticles are very open.
• It absorbs moisture quickly but loses it just as fast.
• It appears dry, brittle, dull, and prone to breakage.
• This is often caused by aggressive chemical treatments or excessive heat use.

Esla Italy recommends the Energy Boosting Shampoo, which gently cleanses while keeping the scalp hydrated.

The hair stays on the surface: low porosity hair

• The cuticles are very tightly closed, making it difficult for water and products to penetrate.
• Hair tends to become easily weighed down and may appear stiff or lacking elasticity.
• It requires lightweight products and specific techniques to allow moisture to penetrate.

Esla Italy recommends the Volume Supreme Shampoo, ideal for adding shine to your hair.

The hair stays in between: medium porosity hair

• Hair absorbs moisture in a balanced way and retains it.
• It is generally soft, shiny, and elastic.
• It does not require special care to stay healthy.

Esla Italy recommends the Thick Hair Daily Shampoo if you have thick hair and the Fine Hair Daily Shampoo if you have fine hair.

How to identify your hair type? The scalp test

The amount of sebum produced by your scalp determines whether your hair is dry, normal, or oily.
To assess it correctly, try this simple test.

Wash your hair with a neutral shampoo, without applying conditioner, masks, or other products. Observe your scalp the day after washing.

Your scalp is dry if:

• It produces little sebum, so your hair stays clean for a long time.
• Your hair is delicate, prone to breakage, and often has split ends.
• Your scalp may appear flaky, with dry dandruff and itching.

Esla Italy recommends Detox Shampoo, ideal if you suffer from dry dandruff.

Your scalp is oily if:

• Sebum is produced in excess and accumulates at the hair roots.
• Your hair looks greasy as early as the day after washing.
• It may be accompanied by oily dandruff, with white, greasy flakes.

Esla Italy recommends Sebum Controller Shampoo to regulate sebum production and maintain a long-lasting clean look.

Your scalp is normal if:

• Sebum levels are balanced, making your hair look healthy, shiny, and soft.
• You can wash your hair approximately every three days without it becoming too dry or too oily.

Esla Italy recommends Frizz Dominator Shampoo to fight frizz and keep your hair luminous.

Now, let’s see how to best care for different hair types, distinguishing between dry and damaged hair, oily hair, and coloured hair.

Dry and damaged hair? Discover the best care and treatments

One of the most common problems, especially for women, is damaged hair. The causes are well known, but the impact is also aesthetic, giving the hair the classic "straw-like" effect, often associated with a neglected appearance.

The extent of the damage depends on hair care habits and previous treatments, but with consistency and the right products, it is possible to restore health and vitality to your hair.

The structure of damaged hair

Damaged hair has distinctive characteristics linked to an alteration of the cuticle structure. The cuticles form the hair fiber's outer protective layer and consist of overlapping, scale-like cells that seal and shield the hair from damage and dehydration.

In healthy hair, the cuticles are closed, giving the hair a smooth, shiny, and protected appearance. In contrast, in weakened hair, they become damaged, with lifted or broken scales. This compromises the hair's natural protection, making it rough, dull, and particularly fragile. The more extensive the damage, the weaker the hair’s protein structure becomes, increasing its tendency to break.

Damaged hair often exhibits split ends, an uneven texture, and pronounced dryness. Due to its high porosity, it easily absorbs moisture, causing it to swell quickly.

What causes damaged hair?

As mentioned earlier, hair damage occurs at the protective outer layer of the hair, known as the cuticle. When this layer lifts, the inner cortex becomes vulnerable, leading to the typical signs of damaged hair.

The main causes of hair damage include:

• Chemical treatments: bleaching, perms, and straightening alter the keratin’s chemical bonds.
• Excessive heat: hairdryers, straighteners, and curling irons reach temperatures that denature hair proteins.
• UV exposure: sunlight degrades melanin and damages hair proteins.
• Mechanical stress: aggressive brushing and tight hairstyles can weaken hair.
• Environmental factors: chlorine, salt water, and pollution contribute to hair deterioration.
• Stress: physical or emotional stress can impact hair health.
• Genetics: some people are genetically predisposed to having more fragile hair.
• Nutritional deficiencies: a lack of essential nutrients disrupts the keratinization process, leading to weakened and thinning hair.

How to fix damaged hair? 

If your hair is brittle and damaged, there are several solutions to improve its condition immediately.

Opting for an intensive treatment can start with trimming split ends: a visit to the hairdresser removes the most damaged parts, preventing further issues, lightening the hair, and stimulating growth. After cutting off the damaged ends, it is essential to follow a targeted routine that includes restorative treatments and daily precautions to prevent further damage.

One of the most effective remedies is therapy with hydrolysed keratin, which penetrates the hair shaft and temporarily repairs damaged areas. Treatments with amino acids, particularly those containing cysteine and arginine, can also strengthen the hair’s structure, making it more resilient and healthier.

Protein repair serums, formulated with low molecular weight hydrolysed proteins, are another useful option, as they help improve the hair’s mechanical resistance by acting on the cuticle.

The use of professional products from Esla Italy, such as the HYDRATION line, aims to rebuild the hair from the root, providing hydration and body. The Manna delle Madonie offers long-lasting moisture and exceptional softness. The shea butter in the mask deeply nourishes the hair, making it easier to comb.

In addition to these specific treatments, it is essential to reduce the use of heat-styling tools such as straighteners and high-temperature hairdryers, always applying a heat protector before styling.

Diet also plays a key role in hair health: a diet rich in essential vitamins and minerals, such as biotin, selenium, and copper, can help strengthen the hair. Regular application of natural oils, such as coconut or argan oil, is also beneficial, as it deeply nourishes the hair, restoring shine and softness.

Hair damage is a complex process involving biochemical and structural alterations. A scientific approach to treating damaged hair requires a combination of restorative treatments, preventive practices, and proper nutrition.

Consulting a trichologist can be helpful for particularly severe cases.

How to stop greasy hair? Here's how to tackle excess sebum like a professional

If you've ever wondered, "Why does my hair get greasy so fast?", keep reading.

Among the most common hair types are oily hair. This type of hair is characterized by a shiny, almost greasy appearance, and lacks volume. Moreover, it tends to get dirty much more easily than normal hair, making it sometimes difficult to manage.

But why? The key factor in oily hair is sebum, a fat produced by the sebaceous glands on the skin and scalp, which has a protective function by lubricating the hair. When its production is excessive, seborrhea develops, causing the accumulation of sebum on the hair, making it oily, greasy, and hard to style.

With the right precautions and a healthy routine, it is possible to combat oily hair and give it a healthy, shiny appearance.

Main causes of oily hair

• Hormonal imbalances: the hyperactivity of enzymes that convert testosterone into dihydrotestosterone can increase sebum production, causing acne and seborrhea on the scalp.
• Genetic predisposition: the hair's sensitivity to dihydrotestosterone, which varies genetically, can lead to excessive sebum production.
• Stress: stress and anxiety can stimulate sebum production.
• Smoking: smoking contributes to worsening the condition of oily hair by irritating the scalp.
• Air pollution: fine dust and smog deposited on the hair increase irritation and sebum production.
• Poor eating habits: a diet rich in refined carbohydrates, fatty or fried foods encourages excessive sebum production.
• Use of harsh cleansers: too strong shampoos can remove the protective sebum, damaging the scalp and promoting increased sebum production.

In addition to these primary causes, environmental factors such as heat and humidity, as well as inadequate hair care, can also exacerbate the problem.

Effective solutions for oily hair: how to stop greasy hair

To put an end to oily hair, just a few but effective precautions are needed. Let's look at the tips for treating oily hair:

• Wash the hair with professional, specific products

It’s very important to treat the scalp with products suitable for oily hair. The most effective method for tackling this problem is gentle washing using oil-based, non-foaming shampoos that respect the health of the scalp.

The OILY SCALP line by Esla Italy contains a marine-derived biotechnological ingredient that helps normalise sebum production and ensures a long-lasting clean appearance.

• Wash the hair frequently

Although it was once believed that washing hair every day was harmful to the skin and hair, today dermatologists refute this idea: when hair becomes heavy, dull, and greasy due to excessive sebum production, regular cleansing, even daily, is essential.

Washing hair frequently does not damage its structure, as long as harsh cleansers that could weaken or damage it are avoided. It’s essential to use sebum-normalising, sebum-affine, and dermo-purifying shampoos to prevent too much sebum from being removed from the hair and scalp's surface, thus preserving their natural hydrolipidic film that acts as a protective barrier. It’s very important not to massage the hair too vigorously.

Finally, it’s crucial to rinse the hair thoroughly to ensure no product residue remains on the roots or ends, which could weigh the hair down once dry.

• Pay attention to diet

The health of your hair largely depends on a balanced and healthy diet. To ensure strong and healthy hair, it's essential to follow a diet rich in fresh foods, vitamins, and minerals, along with sources of sulphur-containing proteins like eggs, meat, and fish. These foods also provide essential minerals like calcium, copper, and zinc.
Adopting a healthy lifestyle is, therefore, crucial to maintaining healthy hair and overall balance in the body.
In addition, using specific supplements for the scalp and hair can be a valuable support for promoting the well-being of the hair.

If, in addition to oily hair, symptoms such as oily skin, acne, or hirsutism occur, it’s advisable to consult a dermatologist to rule out any hormonal imbalances.

Coloured hair: how to keep it healthy and radiant

Did you just dye your hair and dream of keeping the same colour for weeks? Are you wondering how to keep your balayage vibrant over time? After the first few days of colouring, it's normal for the colour and highlights to start fading. The good news is that, by following a few simple tips, you can maintain your hair colour for longer, or at least until your next appointment at the salon!

Why does hair dye fade?

Hair dye or balayage fades over time due to several chemical and physical factors. These include exposure to UV rays, which degrade the dye molecules, as well as frequent washing and environmental elements that gradually remove the pigments. Additionally, the oxidation process, which is initially useful for setting the colour, weakens the bond between the pigment and the hair fiber over time. A lack of hydration promotes the dispersion of colour, while the natural hair growth leads to the appearance of new untreated fibers, making the colour less uniform.

Tips for maintaining hair colour and the best shampoo for coloured hair

To extend the life of your colour, it's important to follow specific steps for coloured hair.

Follow these steps to prolong the life of your colour:

• Use professional products for coloured hair

Using professional products for coloured hair is essential to preserve the shine and longevity of your dye. These products are formulated with gentle ingredients that protect the hair fiber, prevent fading caused by frequent washing, and reduce damage from external factors. Additionally, they contain hydrating and nourishing agents that keep the hair healthy, soft, and shiny, extending the intensity of the colour and preventing a dull or lifeless appearance.

Esla Italy has developed a range of professional colouring products that encapsulate the essence of colours inspired by Italian life and design. The Color & Blonding collection not only offers intense and vibrant shades but also contributes to the well-being of the hair, ensuring brilliant and long-lasting results.

Start your routine with one of the best shampoos for coloured hair: Esla Italy Purple Shampoo. Thanks to the properties of fruit acids from blueberry extract, it counteracts unwanted yellow tones caused by lightening and bleaching, leaving the hair shiny and elastic. Your blonde balayage will thank you!

• Avoid hot water

If you want to maintain the shine of your coloured hair, it's best to avoid water that's too hot. Heat opens the hair cuticles, which can cause colour to fade. In contrast, lukewarm or cold water helps seal the cuticles, keeping the colour for longer. If you can't avoid washing your hair with hot water, try finishing with a cold water rinse.

• Avoid chlorine and salt water

If you love swimming in pools or at the beach, always protect your hair before diving in. Chlorine and salt water can damage your hair colour, causing it to fade. Use a silicone swimming cap or apply a protective conditioner to your hair before getting in.

We also recommend applying a hydrating mask to your coloured hair at least once a week, such as the Purple Hydrating Mask.

• Use a heat protectant

As we've seen, heat and external factors can be aggressive and damaging to coloured hair. Similarly, using heat tools, such as a hair dryer, straighteners, and curling irons, can also damage the colour of treated hair.
It's advisable to reduce their use or, alternatively, set them to a medium temperature, and never use them on damp hair.
Before using these styling devices, apply a heat protectant to your hair to safeguard the colour.

• Try a hair gloss treatment

To refresh and enhance your hair colour, a hair gloss treatment is ideal, giving your hair intense shine and a healthier appearance.
It is especially recommended for coloured hair, as it intensifies the tone, highlights the reflections, and prolongs the life of the colour. Furthermore, due to its sealing action on the cuticles, it helps tame frizz and leaves hair softer and silkier. Free of ammonia and without penetrating the hair fiber, it does not compromise hair health. Its effects last for a period of 4 to 6 weeks, depending on the frequency of washing. Fantastic!

The hair of your dreams is within reach!

Taking care of your hair is not just an aesthetic matter, but a true act of self-love. Now that you've discovered everything you need to identify your hair type and choose the right treatments, you're ready to show off healthy, shiny, and irresistible hair!

Remember: consistency is key. With the right products and a few simple daily habits, your hair will become your best calling card. And if you still have any doubts, Esla Italy is here to guide you on your beauty journey with personalized and high-quality solutions. 

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Now, all that's left is to pamper your hair and make it shine!